Is GREEN the new BLACK? It sure looks like it. Check the ads. Huge energy companies and global conglomerates are competing in a contest called "who is the greenest of them all?"
While we are waiting for the outcome, let's examine how the wine industry is responding to environmental issues. Three years ago, I researched an article on "natural wines" for a wine magazine. At the time there was already a groundswell of wine growers on both sides of the Atlantic, moving into "organic" or even "biodynamic" wine making.
For the wine trade, quality is the bottom line. "Green practices" are welcome as long as the wine is not below par. "Green" importer "Beaune Imports" told me that certification for organic wines from abroad is so onerous that they just don't bother. Check their website where they provide info on their wines.
The odd thing three years ago was that many estates kept their "green practices" under wraps. Organics was one thing but Biodynamics with its"voodoo practices" (e.g.: stuff cow horns with manure, bury for a season, dig up, water down the contents and spray on soil) was assumed not to be every wine consumers cup of tea.
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| Horses are becoming a common sight in French vineyards. |
Biodynamics is the brainchild of Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925), founder of Anthroposophy, best known for its Waldorf schools. Biodynamics sees agriculture as an organic whole and maintains that everything that grows on earth is an expression of cosmic forces. Besides restoring abused soil to health and protecting natural flora and fauna surrounding the fields, the biodynamic grower links his work to cosmic forces like moon phases and planetary positions. The land is nourished with specific composts and cultivated plants are sprayed with infusions brewed from plants like stinging nettles and chamomile.
"Demeter," the certification authority for biodynamic growers does allow dusting with sulfur and spraying with Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfite and lime mixed in water), if the vines have been attacked by either powdery or downy mildew.
Ironically, wine estates more so than farms are now adopting the biodynamic practices developed by Steiner, a teetotaler who abstained from alcoholic beverages and thought of them as unseemly.
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| Biodiversity in the vineyards of southern France |
When prestigious French domains adopted Biodynamics in the belief that it would lead back to vineyard identity (terroir) that makes for individuality in wines, some of the tonier California estates (e.g. Phelps) followed suit. A heated debate in California is currently pitting believers in Biodynamics against viticulturists who think it's a hoax. Chief among the latter is Stu Smith, maker of remarkable wines at his Smith-Madrone winery. Follow the discussion on his website www.biodynamicsisahoax.com. Very interesting stuff.
WHY WOULD YOU CARE?
Organic food has gone mainstream. Surprisingly, most wine drinkers are oblivious about the chemicals that are used in vineyards and wineries. If one strives to eat local, sustainable, and organic foods, it might make sense to check out how the wine was produced.
Terms like "sustainably grown," "organic," and "biodynamic" are no longer just used by fringe elements of the wine world. I see them more and more on wine lists and on wine labels.
Most of California's wine growers now practice "sustainability" in the vineyard. It means that the grower maintains healthy soils and reduces waste of water and energy. Vague, but at least it's a start. Growers are encouraged to adopt organic or biodynamic farming.
Organic grape growing follows the guidelines laid down by the United States Department of Agriculture for any organic produce: no synthetic pesticides, fungicides or other non organic chemicals; soil enrichment must be natural (e.g. compost) and natural alternatives to pests, weeds, and vine disease management must be used.
If all of this is appears confusing, it is. There is fluidity in the nomenclature.
WHAT THE WORDS ON THE LABEL MAY MEAN:
"Contains sulfites" - The USDA forces every producer of sulfite containing food or beverages, to print "contains sulfites" on all labels. Sulfites have been used for centuries by vintners to battle wine-spoiling bacteria and it seems to have little ill effect on the average wine drinker. Nevertheless some people are extremely allergic to it.
"Contains No Detectable Sulfites" - Surprising claim, since sulfites occur naturally in the soil.
"Contains Only Naturally Occurring Sulfites" - No sulfites were used in the wine making process.
"Sustainibly Grown Grapes " - Grower and vintner use "sustainable practices." Chemical pesticides, herbicides, and artificial fertilizers may have been used.
"Made With Organic Grapes" - Winery used organically grown grapes only. Chemicals may have been used in the wine making process.
"Demeter Certified Biodynamics" - Winery underwent lengthy conversion and certification to Biodynamics.
VINS DE PAYS - COUNTRY WINES FROM THE HEART OF FRANCE
Believe me, every Frenchman/woman you'll ever meet abroad is "from Paris," unless they are part of a mission to promote, say, the wines of Bordeaux. But deep down, all these Parisians, real or pretending, are still attached to the cow towns their families came from. Best case scenario: the family kept their modest dwelling in the Provence or their humble cottage in Bretagne.
If this family retreat happens to be in wine country, they'll drink the little country wines that are produced locally. If you think French wines are all from Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne, you are in for a very pleasant surprise if you get off the beaten path while traveling in France.
From the French part of the river Moselle in the far north to the foot of the Pyrenees, there is a patchwork of wine producing areas and their wines can be delightful. It's from these vineyards that the Vins de Pays come.
Vins de Pays are the perfect antidote to overblown, overextracted, overoaked wines. They are cheap and should the wolf be at the door, you can still enjoy delicious wines.
Don't read any further if your luncheon wine is Lynch Bages, "lunch bag" as the Brits endearingly call it, and your dinner table is graced by a bottle of Chambertin. Lucky you.
Mere mortals who are looking for little nuggets of interesting and tasty wines that cost less than a king's ransom have some remarkable choices among these Vins de Pays. Lower your gaze as you examine the shelves of your wine shop and you will discover French country wines in greater and greater numbers at real budget prices.
Vins de Pays can come from all corners of France. They have not yet been allowed into the pantheon of the French appellation system. The Vins de Pays classification is now morphing into a system called "Indication Geographique Protegee" (protected geographical region). Too bad. Vins de Pays sounds much quainter.
Producers have to submit the wine for analysis and tasting. There are also regulations on grape varieties and blends. If a Vin de Pays is predominately made from one variety, it's name can be mentioned on the label. That should give them a leg up with the American wine drinker who is used to buy wines with the variety displayed on the label.
"Vins de Pays d'Oc" is the name you are most likely to encounter. These wines come from France's largest wine growing region, Languedoc-Roussillon. Its a pleasant surprise that in this Mediterranean climate winemakers produce whites which are crisp and lively.
A delicious and very inexpensive example is the 2008 La Closerie des Lys, "Les Frutiers." This is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino (Importer: Vintage '59 Imports LLC). I found it at my local wine shop for eight dollars. Another great producer of whites in the area is Jean-Louis Denois. He delivers with Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and he even makes Pinot Noir with a nod to his Burgandian roots .Denois wines and a number of other Vins de Pays producers are available at K&L Wines (www.k&lwines).
Reds made from Syrah, Grenache and Carignan from other producers and the roses made mostly from Cinsault will usually be just as well-made.
The Vins de Pays d'Oc have a few subcategories.Two of them, Vin de Pay de L'Herault (Languedoc) or Vin de Pays de Cote Catalane (Roussillon) are sometimes mentioned on a bottle.
Second in volume are the Vins de Pays de La Loire. This growing area encompasses the entire Loire valley that hasn't been classified yet. I keep buying the remarkable 2009 Domaine de L'Aujardiere Chardonnay (Vins de Pay du Val de Loire) that is available for about ten dollars. This producer is imported by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (www. kermitlynch.com).
Other gems that I have encountered came from the Rhone valley and Provence and are called "Vins de Pays Rhodaniens" and "Vins de Pays de Vaucluse" respectively.
MISCELLANEA
BARGAIN ALERT: Best ever Loire sparkling wine must be the Chateau de L'Aulee "Elegant" from the Touraine Appellation (mostly Chenin Blanc), made in the Champenoise method. It's sold at DeeVine Wines (www.deevinewines.com) for thirteen dollars a bottle (10% off for case purchases). Pull the cork ever so slowly. Exuberantly foamy stuff.
THINK SWEET FOR VALENTINES DAY: There are fabulous sweet wines that are under appreciated and therefore affordable. Why pair chocolates with Zin or Cab when there are better alternatives available?
FORTIFIED WINES (around 20%alcohol): Try your ultra dark chocolates with a sweet style MADEIRA (Bual or Malmsey), a great wine from the Atlantic isle of Madeira, whose wines are making a comeback. Don't worry about leftovers. They wont spoil for months. Best selection at the Spanish Table.
A great, alternative, fortified as well and also going well with Chocolates is PORT. It doesn't have to be a 1970 Taylor Fladgate. All prestigious Port houses are putting out "Late Bottled Vintage Ports" which cost around twenty dollars.
MALAGA is a legendary sweet wine from Spain that is now being restored to its former glory. Get the 2007 Jorge Ordonez & Co. No. 1 Seleccion (half bottle) for around twenty dollars at the Spanish Table.
NOT FORTIFIED:
VOUVRAY: Great Chenin Blanc wines from the Loire Valley in France. The sweeter styles are called
"Semi Sec" or "Moelleux," the latter being a sweet, late harvest wine.
GERMAN RIESLINGS: All go great with Asian food, in particular the spicy kind.
For a splurge, go with a 2006 "Scharzhofberger Auslese" a great wine that is available at DeeVines Wines (www.deevinewines.com) for thirty-six dollars, a real bargain. Drink it as a treat by itself.
SAUTERNES: The great sweet wines from Bordeaux are still undervalued, considering the laborious process that wineries follow to make them. 2005 was a very good vintage for Sauternes. Check out the
'05 Chateau Guiraud or Chateau La Tour Blanche which both go for fifty dollars each at the San Francisco Wine Club.
The isles of Madeira (madeira =wood - wooded islands) lie about three-hundred miles off the Atlantic coast of Morocco. They were discovered by Portuguese seafarers in the early 1400's. No humans inhabited the isles. I hate to think what the seamen would have done with the natives. Soon land was cleared to grow food and terraces built to cultivate the vine.
The Rare Wine Company of Sonoma, California recently cooked up this great idea to get old stocks of Madeira and issue Madeiras whose bottles are graced with handsome labels showing historic depictions of East Coast port cities where Madeiras were unloaded during the hey days of its popularity. The Company issues wines in all styles (i.e. Verdelho, Sercial, etc) and most bottles are around fifty dollars.
