(WINE) VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE

Do high brow connoisseurs ever get tired of their daily diet of First Growth Bordeaux, California Trophy Cabs or Grand Crus Burgundies? I would. How about the financially challenged drinker who has found a refuge inside the House of Two Buck Chuck? How long can s/he last in this Cabzinchardonnay triangle? Sooner or later you turn, heaven forbid, to beer or to my blog.

There is more good wine from obscure varieties and areas out there than ever before. Fashions come and go. Today's "go-to-wine" (please, help me banish this expression!), is tomorrow's old hat. But quality endures, no matter what fashion dictates. One caveat. We are dealing here with some odd birds. Still, tracking them down is worth your while.

ALTO ADIGE (ITALY): Land of the Dolomites with a hybrid Italian/Tyrolian culture.

     LAGREIN: Indigenous red variety, once only thought to be suitable for Rose. The beast has been tamed and in the right hands now yields delicious red wines.
Recommendation: Cantina Convento Muri-Gries - This monastery's Lagrein vineyards are considered of "grand cru" quality. Check winesearcher.com - "Lagrein." Entry level $15. I tasted their outstanding "Riserva" at the recent Gambero Rosso "Tre Bicchieri" tasting.

     TRAMINER: The slightly less pungent progenitor of Gewuerztraminer, hailing from the village of Tramin/Tramino in Alto Adige.
Recommendation: Kellerei Tramin/Cantina Tramino (winesearcher.com)

CAMPANIA (ITALY): We are moving from the extreme North of Italy to the very South of the boot.

     GRECO: Noble, indigenous white variety, likely of Greek origin by way of Greek colonists who settled in the South of Italy during antiquity.
Recommendation: Cantina Leonardi Taurasi "Grecomusc'." Tasted at Biondivino, San Francisco's premier purveyor of Italian wines (biondivino.com) or check with the importer (omwines.com). Straight out delicious! Not that cheap, but a real treat.

BURGUNDY (FRANCE): The really exalted stuff, White (Chardonnay) and Red (Pinot Noir), is now the privilege of those who hide their money in offshore accounts or Swiss banks.

     ALIGOTE: Indigenous white grape, junior to the ubiquitous Chardonnay, higher in acidity than the latter, yielding delicious wines if the weather plays along.
Recommendation: K&L Wines (KLWines.com)  usually carries two different Aligotes -around $15

LOIRE (FRANCE): This is the black hole of the French winescape that deserves a special blog.

     CHENIN BLANC: Indigenous, noble grape variety of the region. It comes in all styles: bone dry, semi-sweet, and sweet, all age worthy in good years. Make sure you get the style you prefer. Best known appellations are Vouvray, Savennieres, and Montlouis.

Recommendation: Check out inventory at KLWines.com. Some Loire Chenins can be yours for around $15.

     CABERNET FRANC: One of the minor grape varieties of Bordeaux has found a home in the Loire Valley. Try to be the first one on your block to actually like the wines made from CF. I am a huge fan, but most of the Cab drinkers I know can't wrap their heads around it. If you are not bothered by herbal aromatics, this is for you. Good vintages age magnificently. Major appellations are Chinon and Bourgueil.
Recommendation: Major purveyors are Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant (kermitlynch.com) and KLWines.com. $15 will get you a good bottle.

THERMENREGION (AUSTRIA): Small wine district southwest of Vienna with high standards.

     ZIERFANDLER-ROTGIPFLER: Don't even try to pronounce these teutonic tongue twisters. These indigenous varieties are usually blended and have long been the source of a highly regarded wine called "Gumpoldskirchner." It's a rich, well-balanced white with lots of body and a spicy aroma.
Recommendation: Only place I ever saw it in the San Fransco Bay Area was at KLWines.com. Costs between $15 and $20. Also check with Biondivino (biondivino.com). The owner, Ceri Smith, specializes in Italian wines, but is also fond of Austrian varieties.

NEUSIEDLER SEE AND BURGENLAND (AUSTRIA): Both districts are southeast of Vienna where continental climate prevails (i.e. hot, dry summers, very cold winters).

     BLAUFRAENKISCH: Reds of real character with good acidity. Entry level bottles ($15) are for early consumption.
Recommendation: Good selection at KLWines.com

      RUSTER AUSBRUCH : Rust is an adorable, quaint town near the Neusiedler Lake. Ausbruch is not a grape but a noble dessert wine which is enjoying a revival. Furmint, the variety used to make the great Tokaj wines, was once widely grown around Rust and wineries are increasing plantings of this noble grape. This might be the best deal in botrytis (noble rot) affected sweet wines out there.
Recommendation: Check winesearcher.com. Not exactly a cheapy, but one 500ml bottle will provide a great dessert for six.