BORDEAUX BASICS: THE REDS

"Appellation Controlée: Bordeaux" 

 Multiple plate etching by the Wine Meister

THE SETTING

Bordeaux is the world's largest quality wine district and offers an amazing range of red wines, priced from ten dollars per bottle to over a thousand from the top chateaux. However, almost all Bordeaux reds have one thing in common. They are blends of grape varieties indigenous to the region: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The first two varieties are by far the most planted ones and dominate the blends.

While California introduced varietal labeling (e.g. Cabernet Sauvignon) to the wine world, France is largely sticking to a "terroir" system. French law in most cases doesn't permit varietal labeling, which may baffle consumers.

"Bordeaux" is the huge wine district in Southwest France along the Rivers Dordogne and Garonne, which eventually join to form the Gironde. The Gironde estuary is bordered by the largest sub district, the Medoc, where the premier grape variety is Cabernet Sauvignon. Just before the confluence of the rivers lies Bordeaux, France's second largest city and the hub of the wine region.

The range in price and (presumably) quality begins with "Bordeaux," and continues with "Bordeaux Superior," "Medoc," "Haut-Medoc," and "Graves." The wines of the Medoc were classified in 1855 from First Growth (e.g. Chateau Lafite) to Fifth Growth (e.g. Lynch-Bages) according  to the prices the chateaux fetched for their wines at the time. The top dogs from 1855 still occupy their positions, but much of the classification is now dated. However, being part of the classification still delivers prestige and higher price points.

St. Emilion and Pomerol along the Garonne River are superb wine communes where Merlot is king. They were not included in the 1855 classification, but have earned their laurels by sheer dint of quality. More recently, some "junior" appellations like "Cote de Blaye" and "Canon Fronsac" have seen dramatic increases in quality.

VINTAGES

Unlike California, where growers once claimed that "every vintage is a good vintage," Bordeaux vintages vary greatly in quality. While many California wineries strive to increase the prices of their Cabs no matter what, Bordeaux wines are less expensive in lesser vintages.

If a "lesser" vintage is still very good, but stands in the shadow of a "great" vintage, it's time for the bargain hunter to get active. Perfect examples are the 2008 and 2009 Bordeaux vintages. Critics and Chateaux owners alike have declared the 2009 a "Vintage of the Century," the latter to fleece the consumer. In contrast, the 2008's are approachable early, absolutely delicious and a lot less expensive.


2008 VINTAGE

I got my first taste of  2008's at a March tasting at the San Francisco Wine Club (ten dollars for the tasting) and I was impressed. Prices ranged from fifteen dollars to ninety dollars per bottle. The wines were expertly presented by Bordeaux specialist Victoire Touton (www.aquitainewine.com).

Yes, you often get what you pay for, but there were already some very nice wines in the eighteen to twenty-six dollar range. I liked Chateau Le Conseiller (Bordeaux Superior) - $18, Chateau Doyac (Haut Medoc) - $18, Chateau D'Aiguile (Cotes de Castillon) - $26, Chateau de Sales (Pomerol) - $26, Chateau Vrai Canon Bouche (Canon Fronsac) - $26.

"Chateau La Confession"(St. Emilion) at  $37 was great, approachable now, but will be even better with a few years of cellaring.

A highly rated Chateau of the Graves district, "Chateau Haut-Bailly" (Pessac-Leagnon) at $90, more than lived up to its reputation. Their '08 is a fabulous wine.

However, if you were intent on getting the 2009 "Vintage of the Century" Haut-Bailly as a pre-arrival (you give the wine merchant an interest free loan until the wine arrives), you will pay on average around $130 and only time will tell whether the '08 at $90 or the '09 at $130 is going to be the better wine.

UNDER THE RADAR

In an article called "Savoring the Soulful Side of Bordeaux," Eric Asimov of the New York Times mentions among others Chateau Lanessan (Haut-Medoc) - priced at about $20 (Premier Wine Company, Richmond, California) and Chateau de Bellevue (Lussac-St.-Emilion) - around $25 (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, California). They are best at around ten years of age and vintages going back ten years are often available. As Asimov says and I certainly agree, they show the soulful side of Bordeaux (at down to earth prices).